Christmas in the Netherlands, blackface, and other strange things

OK, so here it is. Christmas in the Netherlands. How is it similar? How is it different? Christmas is CRAZY here! I mean really CRAZY. First of all, it all officially starts on Nov. 15th. Seriously. Sinter Klaas (not Santa Claus) arrives in town, on a steamboat, with his horse and his "helpers", all named "Zwarte Piet" (literally Black Pete). You see, "Sint" lives in Spain and he comes to the Netherlands early to hang out with the kids. His helpers "Zwarte Piet" are black because they are Moors from Spain. I know, this is really weird, but it gets weirder. Zwarte Piet are clever, acrobatic pranksters and they arrive in town playing pranks and giving out sweets to the kids. The kids really love both Sint and Zwarte Piet and it's not unusual to see a kid dressed up as either Sinter Klaas (with full on Papal regalia) or as Zwarte Piet (dressed up in a joker's kind of garb and black face, seriously).

Now, first of all, let me address the black face. It's so weird and wrong and weird and wrong again. Rob and I have discussed this many times and well, it's so wrong. Blah, blah, I know, being an American, we have our racial history, our baggage that we just shouldn't be able to shrug off. Black face is an utter act of racism. You'd probaly be arrested in the states for it, right? Or you'd at least end up on the news, right? Here, it's kind of like a priviledge to be asked to be a Piet. When Sinter Klaas is on the news at night (which he is every night), many people watch just so they can see which Dutch celebrity is a Zwarte Piet. I've talked to Dutch people about the black face. Many of them see no problem with it. "What? The kids LOVE Zwarte Piet! They want to be him!" Yes, my kids, too really do love Zwarte Piet and have been known to walk the streets here wearing their Zwarte Piet hats (feather and all, see photos). However, I must drawn the line at the black face, just not cool to this American. I mean, I took the kids to go see Sint when he arrived. While we were waiting my neighbor said that Benny could get his face painted. I said, "um, well, he really doesn't like make-up (not a lie)". When I saw how her children had had their faces painted I almost fainted. Yes, brown make-up with red lipstick (now here's the kicker) with the lipstick drawn AROUND their lips so they appeared larger.


I don't want to paint the Dutch as racist because I really don't think most of them are. Naive, well, maybe. Or maybe it's more that I'm making more observations about what my experiences are as an American and how these experiences and history affect me. I have talked to many other Americans on the is topic and well, we all agree that we can do with out the black face.

Now, the positive aspects about Christmas here? Did I mention that it's crazy? And that I love it! Christmas is all about the kids because, Sinter Klaas after all, loves kids. On the night of Nov. 15th the children leave out one boot by the chimney for Sint and Zwarte Piet. They also put a drawing they made in the boot and they leave out water and a carrot or two for Sinter Klaas's horse, Amerigo. In the morning they wake up to a shoe full of pepernoten (a gingerbread like cookie) and maybe a small toy. This ritual happens every few nights (depending upon the parent) until Dec. 6th, Sint's birthday. On that night, the children receive their big present.
Phew!

Confusing, isn't it? I asked many a neighbor about exactly when we should give the children gifts and got a different answer each time. Finally I decided that Sint knew we were Jewish and would therefore come and visit on each Shabbat. Isn't Sinter Klaas thoughtful? Although, I almost lost it when Benny asked us to do our Shabbat blessings in Dutch, you know, because Sinter Klaas would like that? I love kids.

And finally, another reason why I love Christmas here? Watch out this is a purely selfish reason, I really have to give credit to Sint and well, mostly Zwarte Piet for helping Benny transition to his big boy school with ease. At first B would cry before I left him at school, but every since this whole Christmas craziness started, he loves going to school and to be honest, who wouldnt'? The other day he and his classmates went out on a boatride with Sinter Klaas and Zwarte Piet. How cool, cruisin' down a canal with Sint, Piet, and all your buddies. What an experience. The other morning Rob went to drop Benny off at school and well, much to his chagrin had some problems actually dropping Benny off. You see, Zwarte Piet had visited his school and he caused some mischief. He had strung string all along the hallway, so much that all the parents and kids had problems physically getting to their classrooms. Once Benny and Rob got to the classroom they had more problems. Zwarte Piet had tied all of the children's chairs together and they had to untie and cut the chairs apart. Piet had even left nasty notes to the kids on the walls and (get this) black hand prints all around the classroom (I know, I couldn't believe it either). Minus the handprints, I thought that whole experience was so cool and most importantly, Benny thought is was the greatest day ever. To him, Zwart Piet really was there and he really left them notes (one of them starting "Hello pantspoopers").

So...that's what we've been up to lately. Lots of Sinter Klaas, Zwarte Piet, fun and reflection. As you can tell, I'm still not quite sure what to make out of this craziness, but overall, I know that it is in good fun and that if it weren't for this holiday Benny might not be so jazzed about going to school. Now, how are we going to get him to go to school in January?